Puss Puss
August 2024
Olivia Allen
Inspired by British wildlife and the tranquil landscapes of Sussex, jewellery designer Natasha Wightman creates unique, treasured pieces. Her work blends meticulous craftsmanship with a deep reverence for nature. Natasha infuses her designs with history and tradition, drawing from her heritage and upbringing. Collaborations with British artisans further emphasise this connection, resulting in creations that reflect nature’s timeless elegance.
In conversation with PUSSPUSS, Natasha shares how her experiences with wild ravens have profoundly influenced her designs. These enigmatic birds, rich in symbolism, serve as a recurring motif in her collections, representing transformation and introspection. Natasha’s designs are not just beautiful adornments; they are pieces of art that tell stories of the natural world. She captures fleeting moments of nature’s beauty, preserving them in unique and meaningful pieces.
Olivia Allen: Can you start by telling us about your journey and how you got to where you are today in the world of jewellery design?
Natasha Wightman: I was fortunate to be introduced to Vicki Sarge through Bay Garnett, both of whom took a keen interest in my initial Raven collection designs. Vicki was immensely supportive of me as an artist starting out in an unknown world. It took years to complete the “Ravens” collection, discovering different artisans and mediums across Britain, sampling designs, and searching for master goldsmiths to hand-make the chains and clasps. When the collection was completed, Vicki introduced me to the legendary Vivienne Becker and Tessa Traeger, who were also hugely supportive and encouraging. I am deeply grateful to these women for their generosity and support to an artist beginning their journey.
OA: What initially drew you to the field of jewellery design, and how did your early years in Southampton and at Elmhurst Ballet School shape your creative path?
NW: I began my jewellery work to capture the memory and essence of my experience with ravens. I envisioned a wearable, anatomically correct sculpture, similar to a netsuke. After creating the first pendant, I wanted to feature the raven in other ways, inspiring the collection. It was important that the ravens were carved from wild, British-sourced material to achieve the fine detail needed. Growing up in a Southampton flat, nature was a vital outlet for me. I spent time in the New Forest or woods behind our block of flats, where my imagination flourished. Attending Elmhurst Ballet School taught me determination and attention to detail. Dancing for hours daily from age 10, I built resilience and learned the importance of continual improvement, applicable in performance art and jewellery design.
OA: The Honesty Collection draws inspiration from the majestic flight of ravens. Can you tell us more about the journey that led to this unique inspiration and how it manifests in your jewellery designs?
NW: Two ravens individually found their territory over the land where I live. One was young, the other shy but clearly used to humans. I would observe them daily and as they found their strength and became familiar with me, their unique characters revealed themselves. The stillness in myself when near them inspired me to create a collection that reflected their presence, their agility, and the fluidity of power of their movements in flight.
OA: You named the collection ‘Honesty’ after the plant known for its delicate, see-through pods. What does this name mean to you, and how does it resonate with the themes of your jewellery?
NW: I feel Honesty is about integrity and transparency, hence the plant. You must keep true to what you believe and to be authentic to who you are. In this fast world it’s easy to be swayed, convinced, or find an easier or quicker way through, but perhaps that way we miss so much of the journey. The dedication, time and skill that has gone into each of the collections resonates through the authenticity of the craftsmanship that can’t be rushed, there are no short cuts. I wanted each collection to focus on the raven, rather than be distracted by a precious stone, as that’s where the layers of the stories lie and where the heart of each piece is. It was important to me that the Honesty and bespoke collections, as well as the packaging, were all made by artisans in Britain. I wanted to keep everything as handcrafted as possible, so there is an authentic and soulful touch to each of the birds as well as what they are received in.
OA: Your interactions with wild ravens have profoundly influenced this collection. How did these experiences deepen your understanding of their nature and shape your designs?
NW: Ravens, with their strong presence and high intelligence, offer a unique perspective on the animal world, revealing how our beliefs and fears often differ from their reality. To truly capture their essence, I developed an internal stillness to observe their movements and behavior. I noted how their wings change color in the light, the shapes they form while soaring, and the length of their feathers while gliding. These observations inspired lifelike designs. For instance, the multiraven designs in Honesty commemorate a memorable bazaar of ravens, interacting and soaring overhead. Single raven rings can be worn alone or in pairs, and necklaces feature various raven designs that can be layered. My goal was to reflect both their solitary nature and their grace as they gather in bazaars, conveying their elegance and sense of community.
OA: The Honesty Collection captures the fine details of the raven’s feathers and features. Can you describe the craftsmanship process that brings these intricate designs to life?
NW: The detailing of the ravens in my collection was crucial to differentiate them from rooks or crows. Key features include the hackle feathers around their neck, wedge-shaped tails, narrower wings, long wing fingers, and a Bowie knife like beak. Achieving anatomical accuracy was essential, so I worked closely with master goldsmith Mario Constantiou to capture the precise details and movements of the ravens. Mario perfected the design, cast the maquette, and created masters for each piece. Fine details were added to depict their graceful flight. The ravens were then cast, hand-engraved, and meticulously handcrafted. The collection complements various jewellery styles-contemporary, vintage, or antique-using 18ct gold and solid silver, both rhodium-plated for striking contrast. Curb chains were introduced for modern strength, and the ravens’ placement and orientation enhance the design, conveying different feelings.
OA: Your jewellery is meticulously crafted in Britain by skilled artisans. How do you collaborate with these artisans to ensure each piece reflects your creative standards and vision?
NW: Finding the right synergy and artisans to bring my designs to life has been a rewarding journey. I am grateful to work with skilled individuals like Graham Heeley, the master craftsman for Ravens, who shares my vision of pushing boundaries. For me, true value lies not in precious stones but in the skill, patience, and dedication of each craftsman who focuses on every creation. I start by immersing them in the world that inspired NVW, sharing my experiences with ravens through photos and films. I detail my ideas, drawing from what I’ve seen, felt, and learned. Together, we select the right materials for each piece. For instance, I traveled to North Devon’s coastline searching for alabaster for a white raven but found it too soft for fine detail. We also explored various woods, often finding the grain wasn’t tight enough. Each raven design is unique, with Graham enhancing these distinctions using materials like jet, antler, and moorland boxwood. His meticulous craftsmanship ensures each piece embodies nature’s essence, offering distinctive, wearable art for both men and women.
OA: You choreographed The Royal Ballet dancers to highlight the movement in your jewellery. How does the concept of movement influence your design philosophy and the creation of your pieces?
NW: It was an honour to choreograph the Royal Ballet Dancers for both collections. I also styled the clothes and did the barest of make-up and hair for the shoots. I wanted a reportage feeling and wanted to convey a story that felt authentic to me. The Royal Ballet dancers have a way of expressing their emotions through slight movements of their bodies and have a stillness in their faces whilst conveying so much. It was important that I used artists to wear the collection who were at the top of their field. Celebrating master craftsmanship and the Royal Ballet dancers together, two incredible crafts that have been honed, practiced with a true passion united them both for the shoots. If you go to the NVW website you’ll see how the photographs look authentic, not overly posed, and convey movement and a story.
OA: An encounter with René Lalique’s ‘Dragonfly-woman’ brooch sparked your lifelong love of rare crafts. How has this admiration influenced your approach to design and storytelling?
NW: The brooch left a profound impression on me-timeless and intriguing. It highlighted the importance of pushing boundaries while blending elements from both the past and present. The collections I design feature unique subjects and are also very wearable. I aim for pieces with fine details, offering something new to discover under an eyeglass for an immersive experience. I feel Graham has achieved this for Ravens and Mario for Honesty. I strive to create scenes inspired by Britain’s natural world, exploring messages and discoveries from our surroundings. Each collection tells layered stories, celebrating British craftsmanship and the natural world’s diverse mediums. These stories are not solely mine to tell; they already exist, waiting for us all to uncover and appreciate.
OA: Balancing life in rural Sussex with your artistic pursuits, how do these aspects of your life intersect and influence your work as a designer?
NW: My father taught me at a very young age, and I have in turn been mindful to pass on to my children, that its always a benefit to truly stop and appreciate any nature that surrounds you (especially when the day is fraught,) from an incredible sky to the smallest of observations even if for the briefest of moments helps reconnect. The surrounding area of Sussex never ceases to amaze me, the variety and abundance of flora and fauna seems to increase year by year and is being revitalized by numerous restorative projects. From the gentle undulating downs and its ancient woods, there will be something that will ignite an idea or help clear my head so there is room again to create and refocus. Helping to remind me that time really is of the essence and to appreciate the detail of what nature displays.
